How Men of Quality Resolve Differences

How Men of Quality Resolve Differences
Pudel and Peper attacks - an ugly but inevitable part of any 17th C. British Civil War, "Oh! The Shame of it All!"

Thursday, January 29, 2026

Whitemarsh 1777: Scenario #3, Waverly Heights



      
 Col Joseph Reed  "Tastes Great"      Gen Charles Grey  "Less Filling"
An ugly scrap that should have been settled in Tyson's Tavern

All wisecrackery aside, the Battle of Whitemarsh, 5-8 DEC 1777, which ended the 1777 season of the 1777-1778 Philadelphia campaign, is an interesting "almost-battle".  Gen. Howe did everything except make a final assault on the American positions; if he had, Whitemarsh would be as well known as Germantown.  

An excellent on-line reference document about this relatively unknown "battle" is here [CLICK]. It is a driving tour of the battlefield, which is better defined as the large area over which Howe maneuvered to try and outflank Gen. Washington on Militia Hill / Camp Hill [both named for the locations of Washington's militia and main camp, respectively. Camp Hill is actually a lengthy ridge running along the southern side of the modern PA Turnpike. Fort washington State Park is there, which has a fair amount of information about this battle].

During the British maneuvering, Washington made made two probing attacks to locate Howe's forces [on the 5th] and two spoiling attacks to harass and delay their outflanking maneuver [on the 7th]. My intent is to present a scenario for all four of these attacks, beginning with the two spoiling attacks that had the most action.

The chronology is:
1) 5 DEC 1777: Gen. Potter's Pennsylvania Militia Brigade plus Ltc Isaac Sherman [and his Conn Regt, Webb's Additional Regt, most likely] probes the British pickets at Germantown Ave, near the foot of Chestnut hill [now the location of a lovely bridge and Chestnut Hill College].  They send a scouting force across Wissahickon Creek and are countered by the Hessian Jagers supported by Hessian troops. They decide discretion is the better part of valor and withdraw.
2) 5 DEC 1777: Irvine's Militia probes the northeast base of Chestnut hill [now the location of Phil-Mont Christian Academy and Enfield Elementary]. They cross a bridge over Paper Mill Run and get a a fistful of the British Lights to the face while getting organized. They take about 70 casualties including Gen. Irvine who loses a horse, some fingers, and his dignity.

* Break * 

6 DEC 1777: Howe rests his forces, forages, and reconnoiters Washington's position, mostly in the area of Hope Lodge and St. Thomas' Episcopal Church. Deciding that Washington's position here - his right - is too strong to assault [quite correctly - the hill is very steep and overlooks Hope Lodge and Bethlehem Pike, the only way to approach it], Howe decides to move East to turn Washington's left flank, which is hanging out in the air. During the night, he organizes his army into a vanguard [Cornwallis] main body [Knyphausen] and a rearguard [Grey]. 

Howe's lengthy late night / early morning march was well South, so Washington lost contact with Howe and wanted to regain it. He sent Potter and Sherman towards Chestnut Hill, and Morgan and Gist towards Edgehill. Meanwhile, the three British forces took up positions along three roads all heading North / Northwest: Susquehanna Rd [East], Jenkintown Rd [center] and Limekiln Pike [West].

* Resume Action *

3) 7 DEC 1777: Waverly Heights.
The rearguard under Gen. Charles "No Flints" Grey was supposed to await word from Howe that it was time for him to advance to Tyson's Tavern and demonstrate against the American center on the Camp Hill ridgeline. However, he became impatient when no word had come to him and around 1130 began his march up Limekiln Rd. After crossing the Tacony Creek, Grey was ambushed by the same American force under Potter and Sherman that had probed the Wissahickon Creek at Chestnut Hill and run into the Hessians.

4) 7 DEC 1777: Edgehill ridge between Jenkintown Rd. and Susquehanna Rd. 
Gen. Knyphausen's main body advanced to the pass [saddle] between two steep portions of Edgehill ridge where Jenkintown Rd. crosses it. Cornwallis' force does the same at another saddle in the ridge where Susquehanna Rd. crosses. At this point, along the general line of modern Easton Rd at the foot of the ridge, they deployed their forces in a long line and advanced up the steep slope of the ridge. Unfortunately, Gen. Daniel Morgan's riflemen and Mordecai Gist's Marylanders had already occupied it, so were waiting at the top of the steep, heavily wooded slope. A lengthy fight ensued, with the British eventually forcing them off the ridge but requiring several battalions and some artillery to do so.

So the next post will be about this heavier fighting along Edgehill ridge, East of Waverly Heights.

Returning to Howe's flanking movement, outlined above, he had decided to maneuver against and outflank Washington's left [somewhere on the hill above the modern Fairway Shopping Center].  This was a sound decision as the Camp Hill ridge is lengthy and it was definitely possible to find a portion uncontested by Washington and then advance along the ridge, rolling up the American line. Camp Hill Ridge levels out near modern Welsh Road, in the Willow Manor neighborhood by Willow Grove Baptist Church.

To pin the Americans in place, he sent Gen. Grey "up the middle" along Limekiln Pike, straight at the center of Washington's force. Meanwhile, his main effort under Knyphausen and Cornwallis went farther east to Jenkintown and Susquehanna Roads, as shown below with the three red forces all heading North / Northwest:

As their march took longer than planned, Grey got impatient and decided to advance north up Limekiln Rd before noon on the 7th.  

His column was spotted from the westernmost portion of Edgehill [a long ridge about a mile south of Camp Hill / ridge] by Gen James Potter , Col Isaac Sherman, and Col Joseph Reed. They decided to perform a spoiling attack against the marching British [so really, an ambush] in a heavily wooded and hilly section of Limekiln Rd.  They moved their forces over Edgehill South to the best landmark, "Twickenham", the estate of Thomas Wharton Jr. [which is still partially extant today as two now separated houses!] and began forming up.

They apparently sent some forces ahead while they formed the main body and then advanced Southeast, parallel to the line of Church Rd., and over the Waverly Heights hill, just North of the Tacony Creek. This road was mostly likely bridged as it was [and is] a major highway between Philadelphia and the northern farm and quarry lands.  Grey's force was crossing the Creek when they came under Fire from lurking Americans in the woods.

Below, I've blown up the portion that shows Waverly Heights and the Twickenham estate.  It doesn't mark Tacony Creek which is below where the crossed sabers are.

Pages 31-33 of the Battlefield Tour are all about the Waverly Heights fight. Suffice it to say that Grey opposed the Americans in the woods then moved around their left flank [so farther up the road] towards the Heights themselves, pushing the Americans back in some confusion. A wild brawl ensued in the area of Waverly Heights between the advancing PA Militia and 2nd Connecticut / Webb's Additional Regt [it's unclear if Webb's is the 2nd Conn or they are separate units and both were present]. The Connecticut Continentals regrouped, likely on or past the Heights, while the Militia was in the process of retreating to Edge Hill.

In an interesting command problem, Col Reed intervened and began issuing orders much to the chagrin of Col Sherman, the commander of Webb's Additional Regt. Sherman later stated that Reed's orders caused more confusion as they contradicted his.  Later, there was much acrimonious ink spilled over this. Col Joseph Reed was an Aide-de-Camp of Gen. Washington's, and not actually in the chain of command [nor was he ordered to take command]. However, it can be argued that he was intervening to bring some order to the disorder, altho this happy result doesn't seem to have happened.

Reed's horse was shot and he was nearly captured / killed, but was rescued by some dragoons under Cpt. Allen McLane an enterprising Scottish emigrant from Philadelphia. The entire force retreated over Edgehill, and eventually back to Camp Hill, being pursued by some of the British forces most of the way. 

All the piss'n vinegar wasn't taken out of those Rebels, however!  An hour later, the same force made a foray against the Guards Light Infantry. They were repelled with the help of the Jagers and Queen's Rangers.  

Interestingly, a lot of the adjectives used to describe these actions are suspiciously vague and sometimes ill-suited. It does make one wonder not only what really happened, except for the final result of "they went back to their camp" or something that is more definite.  The good news is that it leaves plenty of space for gamers to shape a scenario that is based upon the history but suits their available resources and their temperament. 

Grey continued moving the 3rd Brigade up Limekiln Pike until he made contact with and formed upon Gen. Knyphausen's main body near Jenkintown Rd. The fight then broke out to the East, along Edge Hill.

WAVERLY HEIGHTS FORCES INVOLVED 
[all from Greg Novak's AWI Guide vol1 - now reprinted by Old Glory Miniatures]:
British - 3rd Brigade under Brigadier General Charles Grey.
15th [280], 17th 250], 42nd [600] and 44th Foot [300]. 
Attached and in the Lead: 
Guards Light Inf Cos [?], Queen's Rangers [300], Hessian Jagers [360].
2 x 12Lb Guns.
Total 2100+ men, two guns, 60 mounted Jagers.
Generally, all the British Line should be regulars. All the rest - Lights, Rangers, Jagers, Artillerists - should be veteran, perhaps Elite for the Guard Lights.

American - forces from Major General John Sullivan's Right Wing.
Pennsylvania Militia Brigade - Brigadier Gen. James Potter [2173]
Webb's Additional Conn. Regt [320]
Total 2493 men.

The Battle as Wargame.
Hopefully, I've provided enough direct information and enough additional information to look up, that you can make your own scenario about this fight. It's important to turn the history into a game, and this is where many well-intentioned hosts fail. Scenario balance is tough, and players always manage to think of things to do on the table that you didn't consider. 

Because of this, I like to start with a scenario that I've played before as a starting point. I chose my ever-useful tome  One-Hour Wargames to give a likely scenario. If you have the book, you can likely pick 2-3 scenarios that all make sense given what we know about the battle, and any might be true to history.

I chose #26 "Triple Line". The scenario demands that the advancing Blue army attack successive lines of Red army units, in the style of "The Cowpens". 
The scenario is not based on Cowpens but the somewhat pathetic battle of Bladensburg in the war of 1812.  Actually, I think The Cowpens is a better representation of this scenario than Bladensburg... but what do "I" know??

Additional reasons why this scenario was chosen out of several:
- Defenders are outnumbered by Units 6-4 [but in my game they had 84-64 figs].
- Defenders are restricted to relatively immobile lines. I feel this takes into account the leadership problems of Reed, Sherman and Potter without complicated rules.
- Bridge is the crossing point [altho Tacony Creek is certainly fordable, having the men get their feet wet in December is a bad idea; plus there are the two 12lb guns].
- Victory condition: take the hill, which clears the route of the road, also.
I took the liberty of tilting the road 45 degrees to the right, and having all the American forces and the hill objective to the left of the road.  Now the hill is to the top left, and the road is heading scenario North-South.  This doesn't change the reason for the victory condition to be taking the hill - it is close enough for small arms fire on the road, and certain artillery fire.  From the point of view of advancing Blue Leader, Gen. Grey [no pun intended], the Waverly Heights must be cleared or else the rest of the column will be fired upon as they march North on Limekiln Rd.

Victory Conditions [at present] are:
- 6 Points for possession of the hill, 
- 1 point for each British Unit that exits off the North side on the road. 
Thus, if the British just march all six units off the road North, the best they can get is a draw.  If they take the hill, and exit even one unit, they win with 7/12 points. I'd say that a decisive win would be 10/12 points, or exiting four Units North, the minimum needed to make a credible demonstration against Washington's Center.

Setup and Entry
To save time with player puzzlement, start the game with the jagers and gun on the road, the Queen's Rangers to the left of the road and the Guards Light Infantry companies to the right of the road - they should all be past the bridge. The "ambush" should then be set up openly, at around maximum musket range to the Rangers or the Jagers, whichever target the American player prefers. 

The Americans have one Unit forwards in Ambush, a main line of two, and a final unit on the hill, representing their approach. Distance from the hill is 12" to the main line, and another 12" or so to the Ambush line. This could easily vary with table dimensions.  Perhaps the best way to say it is the distance between lines is 100yards, or effective musket fire distance. The American front unit should be about 8-10" from the bridge, again, just within effective musket range.

As there is no clear account of who is where, use an American force that has two low-quality, large Militia units, a medium sized Green unit, and a medium sized Regular quality unit. Then let the Americans put one unit out as the ambush, two concealed units in the second line, and another concealed unit on the hill.

Reinforcements
British may enter one unit in column on the road during the move phase of their turn, per turn.

Game Length
With a table that is around 6 x 4', I'd have the British enter in the center of a wide side. They have four feet to cross and exit the board. It should be about 6 turns of movement, or 4 distances of effective musket fire, across from the bridge to the north road exit.

In my Zeal & Bayonets, a unit can typically move 10" in column and Fire 12" effectively. Thus it is 4 Moves across the table. My time length is 12 Turns.

Below is the table as I've constructed it. It has a lot of terrain I've been meaning to use for a while! As a nod to Twickenham, I put some snowy walls up. No proof that he had walled or fenced enclosures at any edge of his property, or that his property bordered the road, just an "historical flourish" at this point but I feel they are likely to have been there.  As they help either the attacker or the defender they are "scenario neutral" overall, with the main effect of reducing speed and casualties as they're Cover, and count as an Obstacle to cross in "Zeal & Bayonets".

Below, the "Grand Parade" of troops before the game. 
All Patriots are in position in three successive lines 45 degrees to the left: first line is one Unit of Militia [12 Raw] in the woods near the bridge; second line is two Units at the wall - a large Militia [24 Raw] and Col Samuel Webb's additional Regt [12 Veteran]; the third line is one Unit of the First Pennsylvania [16 Green] on the Hill.
All British will either be entering at the Road by the South bridge or alongside it. Entering along the road in column are the Line Units: 105th Irish Volunteers [16], the 63rd Foot [12], the 3rd Foot "The Buffs" [16], and the 40th Foot [16], all rated average.  Entering alongside the road are the Hessian Jagers [9] and the Lights [12] both rated as Veterans. 

I'm ignoring the guns as they weren't mentioned in the fighting. My guess is that the dense terrain resulted in the British quickly becoming intermingled with the Americans, so there weren't any targets
.
These Units are from a collection kindly donated to the cause a few years ago [click]. The Line units are not the historical units above. But I prefer to use my units and their names.

View from the Patriot's side of the field.  

I hope this reorganizing and editing of the original post makes the scenario adaptation more clear, and inspires you to make up your own.

How does this scenario play out?  We'll see in the next post!

Sunday, January 18, 2026

2026 - Looking Forwards


Gen. Washington looking from Dorchester Heights, Boston from [click]

This blog is my original blog, but has evolved into a focus on the Horse & Musket era. I'll talk about 2026 plans for more modern gaming at my Up the Blue! blog [HERE] and medieval / fantasy / ancient gaming at my Spear to the Strife blog [HERE]. Below are some exciting Horse & Musket plans for 2026! 

Well, I'm excited about them, anyway... but I'm a gaming geek...

1a) Tricorne Era. Am Rev, FIW [some 7YW] w' classic 30mm Scruby figs [click]. 
I have more than enough extra figs to expand my French into 2+ brigades, plus at least a brigade of French Canadians. I need to get Indians from Historifigs. Rules will be my "Zeal & Bayonets" some "A Gentleman's War" and "The Complete Brigadier".  I also need to do my review of the Am Rev Historifigs [click].  That post should be coming soon. I really need some mounted generals and officers for the period, and have been checking out various 30mm sculpts, like those of Tradition of London [click].

2) Shako Era. Napoleonics & War of 1812.
    - This will be a spin on the above project. I've already acquired a good start to 30mm Scruby Napoleonics [click]. Project will be very focused on the battalion and its leadership. I love the old-school approach that really digs into the Battalion / Regiment's history and gives a strong identity to each unit on the tabletop!  Bases from Atomic Laser Cut Designs of Ohio [click] are on the way to get this project going.  They were a great deal, about half of Litko and others, great service, can't recommend them enough!
    - Looking to still do a bit more progress on my 15mm War of 1812 boutique project [click].  Need to paint up Indians, Militia, and redcoats. Rules as above. Finally, want to rebase them onto 40x20mm [so, DBx bases] from Atomic Laser Cut Designs [click]. I plan to mount them 4 figs per base.  The extra size  helps them stay upright, and looks better on the table. One of those mindless busy tasks that will get done eventually.
    - Finally, I need to organize and mount my N-scale [9mm] Scruby minis [click] and most likely expand the French a bit. Alternatively, could re-paint some of them as French [who can tell what the original was in 9mm??].

Both the 9mm and the 15mm projects fit nicely onto smaller tables and spaces. While I love getting out the 30mm units, they tend to be around 7-12" wide, which tests the limit of table space.  This may improve in 2026 as we are doing some re-arranging of the house, and I may end up with a room I can set up 2 tables of 8'x2.5" or acquire a fold-up ping-pong table.

3) Kepi & Picklehaub Era. Franco-Prussian War.
With 2500 figs painted, I need to polish up and refine my K&P rules, base it all, and start hosting games - obviously, I can host a large game with 120 Battalions, 12 Squadrons and 32 guns!  This is a favorite period of mine, so it is essential that I get the rules and basing worked out.  Having just done some playtesting of that Distinguished Gamer Bruce Weigle's 1871 rules [click] I will consider trying them out as well.  The QRS is quite busy, could be made simpler. I don't like that the game mechanics allow wild swings of fortune, but we'll see...

- 3b) FFL v. Arabs. Same era as above.  Will re-base my 15s to match the FPW figs so I can use the FPW French figs in Algeria.  Need to paint up some more Arabs.  Rules will likely be The Sword & The Flame, The Complete Brigadier.

4) English Civil War, 40mm.  This works nicely on the terrain size as the 30mm above. It would be fun to do some small unit actions with The Pikeman's Lament.

5) Terrain!  I really need large scale 15mm FPW terrain.  I have lovely paper buildings I bought the PDFs for from Paperboys.  I also need to hit the small scale 30mm terrain, mainly in the area of hills and printing out Paperboys terrain for that old-school feel.  I have the wire cutter and lots of insulation foam, and the base coat of paint already.  Mostly just need some mild weather for it.

6) Game Design.
Probably the most interesting concept put forward in my gaming world lately was a lengthy OODA-Loop discussion at TMP [HERE]. I've long been dissatisfied with the time / space / activity relationships in traditional I GO - U GO game design.  I've seen a couple of rule sets that use mechanics to show the reality that all armies, units, and commanders don't make and act on decisions at the same speed, these being A Gentleman's War and CWG's "Rocket's Red Glare / Habitants & Highlanders".  However, once units get into close combat [not necessarily melee] the pace of action definitely increases.  I'd like to get that more clearly into my rules designs.  Requires some thinking and playtesting.

Well, there it is. Hope this list inspires you to consider and plan your 2026 game also!

Friday, January 16, 2026

15mm War of 1812 for "The Complete Brigadier"

Red or Blue - that's who!

from: smallsoldiersstouthearts blog [click]

[NOTE: This post was started in early November and then forgotten - it pre-dates the posts on playtesting The Complete Brigadier rules CLICK where you can see the below figures and units on the table].

The start was I want a small boutique project that had the sort of pointless, meandering, indecisive warfare that works best for game play on the table. After all, no one wants to be on the receiving end of Desert Storm or anything... Doing some research, the War of 1812 comes somewhere near the top of the list, checking all the boxes:
- Pointless 
- Indecisive  
- Meandering  
- Warfare  

I went into the boxes of giveaways in 15mm that I have, generously donated by my wargaming club, some of which was successfully sold for charity in years past, and discovered much to my surprise a substantial body of 15mm figs that were already painted, as well as a bunch that were not.

They're a mish-mash of sizes and manufacturers, unfortunately, with True 15s, New 15s, and everything in between.  However, they are consistent by the units, each being the same make / size.  

A substantial number are these fellows, with nice details, great realistic proportions, and decent poses:
As they are True 15s, as in 15mm from bottom of foot to top of head, I did some comparison shots to get a better idea what they might be:
From Left, 
12mm / 1:144 Kallistra ACW fig [actually 13.5mm ] [CLICK], mystery figure,
Minifig 15mm [CLICK], likely another Minifig 15mm fig, artillerist

Below, mystery fig showing off his nice proportions and correct height:


Above and below, Miniature Figurines, aka MiniFig, showing their 16mm height and greater bulk.  But lovely figures!

Another one of the mystery figures, right at about 15mm.

Through plenty of asking around, I finally got what I feel is a good answer.  These are Heritage figs from their Napoleonettes line.
The main problem for me, is that the vast majority of the painted figs are from this line, which I've never heard of, and is definitely out of production.  So...how to add more, especially since nearly all the figures are painted as Americans.  

I could re-paint a bunch as Canadians and Brits, certainly.

I could ask around and see if anyone has some for sale / trade. 
- probably start with this direction first.

This would result in a fun "Red v. Blue" project, above / beyond / beside historical 1812 wargaming. I'm pretty sure in the mess of boxes there are more of the smaller True 15s sculpts.  The main issue is sorting them out and figuring out how to go Red v. Blue.  There are a load of Prussians.  One thing I'm definitely going to need is British with the stovepipe shako...

Meanwhile, I decided to mount them on 1" square bases for a playtest of the fascinating wargame rules from the 1980s, "The Complete Brigadier".  How will this go...I dunno!  To start, I just made certain that the figs would fit on the bases at all.  While TCB recommends 1" wide by 1/2" deep bases, I prefer 1" squares which protect the figures bayonets better. Another reason not to use the popular wargaming pose "advancing with bayonet", I might add.  Not only was it rarely used compared to the march attack but it is prone to damage. Anyway... test below, the figs are resting on the unprimed Liko 3mm laminated wood bases.
Not a bad look, in line, I think.
Near figs appear to be Napoleonettes Prussians in green U.S. Rifles uniform, opposing them are some sort of U.S. blue infantry.



Below is how they look on the primed bases.
I also like the 3mm height - easy to take hold of or just push around.

Below is the entire bunch of painted figs, based, with a few Napoleonic generals, Russian artillerists and such, all ready to go.  14 Battalions, more than enough for TCB, especially using One-Hour Wargames scenarios.

Now, to get these fellows on the table!

Wednesday, January 14, 2026

New Year's Insanity! 30mm Scruby Naps

I just couldn't resist.



Almost 400 Infantry and 86 Cavalry painted [mostly not well and a bit battered] for less than the retail price. I do enjoy Battalion / Regiment focused games, where the units really have an identity and history that is clearly in play also. 

 This project appears to be the remnants of a significant Peninsula War collection. French, German Allies, Polish Lancers, and a few Brits. Since my N-scale Scruby Naps boutique project is mostly French, Austrians and Russians, why shouldn't this 30mm project be the Peninsula!? 

Looks like 6 French Battalions, 5 Westphalian Battalions and 2 Cav, v. 3 strong British Cav Regts and one British Battalion.  Need a lot more Brits!

Below, out of the box and onto the table.

"Westphalian Line" says the bag label.  We'll see!

Westphalian Grenadiers

Westphalian "Guard"

French Chasseurs a Cheval, I'd say.

Foreign Regt Isemburg is the guess here.


My plan is to base them all, while straightening the battered fellows so they have good parade-ground posture.  They seem to fit nicely with 4 on a 2.5" wide base, which will then be 1.5" deep to protect their bayonets, etc.  Thus following one of my "rules of basing" that the ENTIRE figure must fit within the boundaries of the base - otherwise there's just too much damage, scratching, etc.


And this is what the units will look like.  

32 line figs on 8 2.5" wide bases, with the command stand on an oval in the center.  As they fought in "divisions" each of 1/4 of the unit, that's how they'll be based. There will be a few 24 and 16 fig units as well, on smaller bases. 
Many gamers and rules still mistakenly base units by the number of companies they had, which leads to incorrect formations on the table.  This scheme makes it easy to use the Napoleonic "Column of Divisions" as well as a half division for road marching, etc.  The command stand is not a fighting stand, just a marker for Leadership use in my "Zeal & Bayonets" rules.

Each division of 8 figures will take up about 5".  Two divisions wide is 10" plus 2" for the command stand, so each full-sized unit will be 12" frontage on the table when in a 3-rank line.

I'm excited about the figs, the project, and even making old-school terrain for it.  It will also double-down on my 30mm Scruby American Revolution armies, which I plan to add more French and cavalry to and go fight in Europe.  All the terrain can be re-used in either period, far as I'm concerned.

Already ordering the bases, so stay tuned!

Saturday, January 3, 2026

2025 - Looking Back at Progress


"Take your men over thru those trees over there, Captain"
"Which trees over where, Sir?"
"Them, those trees, right there!"
"Sir, that entire horizon is filled with trees..."
Ah yes, a Soldier's life in the wilderness... lots of trees, little food, but plenty of weather.

This blog, Commission and Regiment, is my original blog but is now specifically my Horse & Musket blog. I'd done most of my "Self-check" on gaming, here however. This time I'm just checking in with periods covered in this blog, and how they fared in 2025...
  1. French Foreign Legion v. Arabs, strong showing!
  2. Franco-Prussian War, weak showing.
  3. American Civil War, a no-show.
  4. Napoleonics / War of 1812, a strong showing!
  5. American Revolution, weak showing.
  6. French & Indian War, weak showing.
  7. English Civil War, very little to show.
...mostly because my Up the Blue! blog [click] and gaming has been so busy the last few years that it needs it's own 2025 year in review.

So, how did they goin 2025?  Overall, pretty well!

1) French Foreign Legion v. Arabs [click]
This project returned from a shallow grave in 2017. I used them to try out Neil Thomas' "Wargaming, an Introduction" rules [click]. Then, forgot about them for a while. Finally, in a fit of nostalgia I decided to both dive deep into The Sword & The Flame AND get the figs on the table, since they were initially a project for those rules, anyway. This resulted in several plays and posts [now HERE], lotsa fun, and I have plans to re-base them onto 3-fig bases and paint up a few more units of them.

2) Franco-Prussian War
After my last big battle, Colomby-Nouilly 1870, in 2023, the project lost some momentum as I had to make the hard decision about basing.  They clearly need to be rebased [as the small metal ones they are on tip over and also allow the figs to rub together] and that is such a permanent choice!  Also, I had some dissatisfaction with the rules, and needed some space to ponder them. So nothing happened in 2024 except I acquired some books on uniforms to paint more of them.  

All that has been managed in 2025 is to decide on the basing and buy the bases, altho I've started to spray primer them, also. But I got some plans now!


3) American Civil War
Projects in 54mm and 13mm languish in boxes. They need to have decisions made about them in 2026!  Overall, I find 19th C. Europe a more interesting period than ACW. A shame since there is SOOOO much available locally on it, including re-enacting and battlefields.

4) War of 1812 [click]
I read a few histories and an excellent wargamer's guide, "Rocket's Red Glare",
...which was enjoyable since it's a period I don't know a lot about. 

I also dug into the mess of 15mm figs I was gifted and found a painted War of 1812 project, 200 mostly small "true 15s" on the slender side, nice figs.  I ID'd them as Heritage "Napoleonettes", based them on 1" bases for "The Complete Brigadier" gave those a read and then played them several times. Tactically, 1812 is the same war as American Revolution in Canada.  No new rules needed. Swap tricornes for shakos.  

Playing "The Complete Brigadier" has been a real eye-opening experience for me, as in many ways it is a traditional rule set. However, it has written orders and simultaneous movement [like a naval game] and - as written - no dice rolling for morale, movement or fire.  Fun, nostalgic, and thought-provoking, this has been a surprise for me.  Uncertain where the project will go next.  I definitely need some red coats!

In the area of Napoleonics, I carefully evaluated the painted 9mm Scruby's I have, which are a bunch of Russian, Austrian, and some French. I'm pretty sure I can make a boutique game out of what I have already.  Decided upon 40mm by 30mm deep bases, in groups of 3-4, for the figures. Did some reading and researching. Again, a boutique project with several rule sets on the table to try out. No posts since the Rage occurred with Blucher [click]... but it'll get there.

5) American Revolution.
2025 has been mostly reading some books, working on my "Zeal & Bayonet" rules, researching the Battle of Whitemarsh with my son, and re-visiting the boxes filled with NINE BRIGADES of painted Scruby 30s.  Plus hundreds more in various stages from primed to mostly painted.  I also did some research on suitable leader figures and bought the oval stands I want to use for the command stands. Lots of plans to get these units ready and then get them on the table in 2026!

6) French & Indian War [click]
Again, more reading and another close read of the Canadian Wargames Group books and rules. 

Ordered a copy of "Moncalme & Wolfe" by Parkman which is readily available.
Seriously considering what else can be done with the figs I have before I get any more.  One new idea is to use the 30mm Scruby's for FIW - that means the Brits would be done, but I'd need some Indians, Courier du Bois and French Militia types. Wouldn't take much to get it on the table.  I already have plenty of Americans that could be colonial militia, too!

I love the Armies in Plastic 54mm French Line box of plastic soldiers. I was gifted some painted plastics, so it wouldn't be much to make a skirmish project out of them.  But one pal I know has a lot of that done already, so it'd be easier to ask him to throw a game.

7) English Civil War
Love the period, the unusual uniforms / gear, and my Sash and Saber 40s. Read "Pikeman's Lament" and got a copy.  Seems like a doable way to game with what I already have. Would pair nicely with colonial wars if I throw in Indians, and there are several scraps with French forces and themselves.  Meanwhile, should go ahead and paint the figs I have assembled and prepped...

Rules that got attention in 2025:
A) "The Complete Brigadier" [click] and "The Sword & the Flame" [click] got both close reading and study, then several playtests; made players sheet for TSATF.
 

B) My "Kepi & Picklehaub" and "Zeal & Bayonets" rules were reviewed and updated. Various design notes and theories were noted. Organized the material, also.
C) "A Gentleman's War" [clickwill get more play soon, but I re-read all the posts on the rules, as well as gave them a close read.


D) and Canadian Wargames Group Horse & Musket rules from "Rocket's Red Glare" and "Habitants & Highlanders" books got a close read due to some of the design mechanisms. They are more interesting than I thought at first! But they'll get a playtest with the War of 1812 15s I've prepared. Both books are great resources if you can find a used copy somewhere.

E) "Pikeman's Lament" got a read-thru, and some researching of batreps on line. I think it is a promising set for the figures I already have. This was partially provoked by some games of "Dragon Rampant" hosted by a buddy in 2025.

Well, that's 2025.  

I was glad to get some projects on the table and furthered along. I was especially glad to be inspired by several excellent rule sets that I am beginning to appreciate more and more.  I also feel like I am learning a lot about game design and why I like what I like, and what I want to tweak and/or design next.  

With all this in mind, 2026 should be looking good!