Classic is as Classic does!
I got these rules in the 1980s, around the same time as John Hill's new release "Johnny Reb" [also from Adventure Games], and they really impressed me. The production value was very high, about the best I've ever seen before or since, frankly. The bookcase-style boxed set comes with two volumes "Vol. I - An Introduction to Wargames" and "Vol. II - Rules for Battles" a detailed cross-referenced [!!] 4-page Rules Summary [so...not really a QRS], and two brigades worth of counters [Blue & Red] so that you can start playing immediately:
Volume I Introduction to Wargames starts with the assumption that you know absolutely nothing about table top historical wargaming, and then explains, well, pretty much everything you need to know about historical miniatures, and explains them well! The table of contents shows how thorough Vol. I is:
I enjoy reading it, even though I know already 90% of what J.F. Grossman says - it's such a simple, clear reminder of the historical and gaming facts. In addition to the clear explanations [which still have strong historical basis 40 years later] the books are liberally illustrated by the very talented Peter Quinlan. His art goes from realistic images like these casualties...
...to what is best described as "wargamer funnies":
I think this colonel should be called "the wargamer"...!
Volume II Rules for Battles is a deep dive into the rules, which are incredibly well organized, way beyond most table top rule sets even today. It's like a deep dive into a crystal clear lake where you can see the bottom, instead of the murky silt-obscured river of most rulesets. I'd say these are more like a second edition set of board game rules, they are that professional and that well organized. Everything is also cross-referenced and often repeated in other relevant sections, which considerably reduces the amount of page-flipping. This all makes me believe the rumor I heard that author J.F. Grossman is [was?] an attorney.
The back cover has a summary of a game turn, each Phase written up in a series of logical questions that a player needs to ask of themselves:
The 4-page players reference sheet contains nearly everything you need to play the game, by phase, and is cross-referenced into Vol II so that you can quickly answer any questions about "how do I do that?"
Obviously, if you are familiar with the horse and musket period, you will quickly pick up and use the rules, perhaps learning a few historical facts along the way. But unlike most other rule sets, if you are new to the history AND the hobby, you can also get playing quite quickly, especially if you have played other games, such as a GMT board game, of about the same complexity level.
Every step to get started - organize two forces, create a challenging table and logical game scenario - is clearly laid out. Once you start playing, the game flows easily off the reference sheets onto the table. The occasional lookups into Vol II for rule questions reduce with each game played.
So what are the rules like?
The BLUF is that they are full of period flavor at every level, have extremely little chance / random mechanics, and tactical situations arise almost entirely from the interaction of player decisions. This delivers the head-to-head intensity of chess but with pieces that move simultaneously in a multitude of ways. Some of the mechanics are a bit Old-School but work smoothly and well, and frankly have more "real-feel" and less "gameyness" than many excellent contemporary rule sets. Many of the mechanics are now the standard of tabletop historical gaming, so one can say these rules are well ahead of their time. And nearly any situation one would have in a scenario from water crossings to breastworks, is covered in the rules. Thus the claim of the title "The COMPLETE Brigadier" is well-earned.
To summarize: one feels like a Brigadier fighting his brigade against an opponent rather than a player manipulating a game system.
Essentials. These rules have a clearly stated scale:
- a 5 minute Game Turn [representing about 1 minute of measured action and lots of wasted time].
- Ground Scale is 20y to the "space" which is the width of one stand of the players figs: 1"/25mm or 40mm wide for 15mm figs, and 60mm for 25mm figs.
- The figure ratio is 1 Figure is 20 men.
Each Game Turn has six Phases in which both players simultaneously perform the same Actions:
1. Command
2. Melee
3. Movement
4. Fire
5. Morale
6. Stamina, i.e. fatigue.
As Mr. Grossman puts it, the Command Phase plans the unit actions, Melee-Movement-Fire executes them, Morale and Stamina are the result of the units actions and interactions resulting in events.
1. Command. Commands are written down for each unit, typically one will write 2-4 turns of orders in advance since your personality - the Brigadier [the Complete Brigadier of the title] - can't be everywhere at once doing everything that is useful. Ergo, you have to use resource management with your general. You must plan ahead a few turns, projecting what you need to do and guessing what your opponent is likely to do. All the commands are evocative of period formations and drill, with acronyms of 1-2 letters that make them easy to write down on the roster sheet each brigade will need. For example, if you want your unit to change formation into a line forwards at the march rate, you write: LN-F/M.
It reminds me a lot of the classic Wooden Ships and Iron Men naval game - full of flavor, and you have to plan ahead!
2. Melee is resolved using a value per figure mechanic, with very few modifiers. Generally, more figures will win altho it is difficult to do if you target unit is well supported with secure flanks. A few factors like Disorder and Stamina play a role, also. The totals are divided and the resulting ratio determines the results for the Victor and the Loser, which are clearly summarized on the Reference sheet. Again, it is very period evocative: one can "take ground", "pursue" a retreating unit for additional casualties, or reform, or fire. There are several choices for the Victor, and each needs to be carefully considered alongside the battlefield situation and the victory conditions.
3. Movement is per the written orders, and has *great* feel with simple but period suitable terms and maneuvers. This is one of the few Horse and Musket games where I really do feel like a Brigadier or Division general! Expected and unexpected things happen with the execution of the written orders in this phase, as the opponent also moves. Generally, it is better to play it conservative, keep your troops together in a well-organized line, and bring fire upon the enemy. But for those wilder sort of gamers - and generals - you can take a wilder and riskier approach. Indeed, trying to second-guess what your opponent is ordering for his troops significantly adds to the realism and the fun of the game!
4. Fire is attritional and much more realistic than most games, as in casualties happen much slower and at realistic rates. There are about 8 possible modifiers each for the Firer and the Target. However, only about 4 are commonly used. If you don't make a scenario with mounted skirmishers firing at an open-order unit manning a breastwork, etc, you avoid the other 12.
Resolving Fire is most easily done with a calculator, which takes about 20 seconds. One takes the number of figures firing, divide by the weapon's Range Factor [typical is the flintlock musket with a Close Range Factor of 7 and a Long Range of 21] and you get a Hit ratio which is then adjusted by any multipliers.
For example, a Confident firer gets +50% and when firing at cavalry +50% more, resulting in about double Hits. The final ratio is then rounded up or down and that is the number of figure casualties. In execution, it would look like this;
1) 24 muskets firing at Long Range [Factor 21] inflict 1.14 hits,
2) x1.5 for Confident firer is 1.71 hits,
3) x1.5 for Cavalry Target = 2.57 hits
4) rounded up, is 3 Hits.
After many years studying gaming charts, making a few quick calculations on my phone is preferable I find, despite not being a 'math guy'.
5. Morale has a number of situational modifiers. These give you a clear goal of how to organize and fight your force in the field. They show that keeping your troops organized and fighting together in a battle line while trying to break through and disorganize the enemy fighting line is likely the winning tactic.
For example, a Green infantry Unit will greatly benefit from friendly units on the flanks and a rear support, making it's Morale better than a completely unsupported Regular Unit. Crack units, the best, can be trusted to effectively fight on a flank or on an independent mission. And thus one sees why so often cavalry and light infantry are better units historically...
It is impossible to plan for every eventuality, especially the choices of one's opponent, and sometimes just one +1 to the good or to the bad can either keep a unit in the line or cause it to become Shaken. Battlefield events and your opponent will affect your troops' morale and surprises can definitely occur in preceding phases to change the outcome of this phase!
6. Stamina is the cost of unit activities. Most units have 12-16 Stamina. It costs 0 to move at the normal March rate, but 1 for the Quick rate and 1 to Fire. It is 2 to move at the Double. Given this and a 12 turn game, or so, and units should have enough Stamina to maneuver on the table and keep up a steady Fire. However, the cost for a Charge [2] and Melee [2] with a pursuit [2] can add up quickly to 6 Stamina spent, and a unit that is low on Stamina. This provides both a brake to unrealistic amounts of unit activity and a pretty clear end to the game, as both sides units start to run low and players realize that both time - and energy - is running out.
Knowing when and how to spend Stamina becomes another resource management exercise that significantly enhances the realism of the game, and will reward the thoughtful player.
Rating "The Complete Brigadier"
Sure, it is hard to put a number on many aspects of rule sets. My only justification in doing so here is 44 years of tabletop miniatures experience, and several design, playtesting and publishing credits over the years, along with some research into the topic of wargame design. Despite that, this is a subjective exercise that will likely be more useful in the explanation than in the number values themselves.
Today, I will be using the methodology from the guys at Little Wars TV [I am a Patreon patron] who certainly express their approach clearly, altho one may disagree with it:
from: https://www.littlewarstv.com/scoring-methodology.html
Playability: [30%] 7 / 10 due to medium complexity vs. modern tastes / bandwidth and more abstraction in modern popular historical wargames. Grognards will find it more like an 8 or 9/10...
Mechanics: [30%] 8 / 10 for extremely clear Deployment, C&C, Melee/Move/Fire/Morale rules; also many mechanics "ahead of their time" like a Base Width is the standard unit of measurement on the table. Took away a point as the granularity while flavorful and enjoyable can be a bit demanding.
Historical Flavor: [20%]10 / 10! I've played very few games that make me feel, in nearly every phase of the game, that I actually *AM* the commander I am supposed to be.
Support: [10%] 3/10 as both the author and publisher are MIA and there is no dedicated single internet location to get questions answered and additional scenarios or resources.
Final Score: 78 or "Highly Recommended"
Where to purchase? You will have to check out re-sellers like Noble Knight and of course eBay, but asking around in various Horse and Musket gaming forums can get a copy in your hand for as little as $8 plus shipping.
Well, this has been an interesting review to make, and I did enjoy trying to use the LWTV rating system myself. But most importantly, what does The Teaspoon Napoleon think of these rules? Sitting atop his silver spoon [with a 'Paris' stamp'] he appears a harsh judge, but the facial expression seems a bit more generous than his posture.
I may be reading into Le Petit General's body language more than a staff officer should, but I *think* he concurs. Or at least is not actively disagreeing...
What about you? Comment below!
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